Thursday, July 30, 2009

Desert Daze: A Southwest Adventure (XX)

Part Twenty (finally!): Red Rock Canyon vs. Bryce Canyon

(First time reading this 'Desert Daze' story? Scroll down to 'Older Posts' to start with Part One)

Well, there really shouldn’t be a ‘versus’ in the title, both places are equally spectacular and feature some of the same red, pink and orange rock formations. But in terms of visitation, and despite being only about ten miles apart, they may as well be a million miles away from each other. Bryce’s National Park status and easy access make it a favorite of the tourist crowd, often scurrying right through Red Canyon to get there.

A mistake, in my opinion. I’ve been to Bryce several times before, done the tourist thing - visited all the overlooks and taken several of the recommended hikes. But, because of its popularity, it doesn’t have any feeling of wilderness or solitude, it’s got that ‘Disney-esque’ atmosphere that many of the National Parks have. So this time around, I choose Red Canyon. Although its access is right off the main highway, the minute I hike beyond the sight and sounds of the road, I am in pure solitude; I spot not another single person the rest of the day.

It’s chilly here at 7,500 feet and scattered snow patches contrast nicely with the vivid reds. I start hiking to the top of a ridge to gain sweeping views into the canyon; it’s slow going in the shifting red sands at this elevation. When I finally reach the top, I am breathing heavily. I stop, catch my breath and marvel at the splendor spread out before me.

The sand resulting from the erosion of the rock settles smooth creating an unreal-looking soft landscape of rich color and sexy silkiness (if rocks and sand can ever be sexy and silky, they are here, or maybe I’ve just been out here alone for too long.) It is a dreamscape, almost too beautiful to be true. Yet another place to come back to; to explore in more depth on a future trip.

Next: The Torrential Rains of Death Valley